Semi-Precious Gemstones Shells and Glass

In this glossary you will find a world of information on most of the materials we use in our handcrafted beaded jewelry designs at Bonnico Jewelry Designs. Featuring semiprecious gemstones from A to Z, different types of glass and lampwork beads, shells, differences in the types of the silver and gold we use and even birthstone colors and common jewelry sizes to help you decide if the size is right for you.

Abalone

Abalones are members of a large class (Gastropoda) of mollusks that have one-piece shells. These shells have a dichroic, tortoise like appearance.

They are found in the United States and Canada. The animals are distributed along the coastal waters of every major continent with the exception of South America and the East Coast of North America. The greatest number of this species is located off of Australia, Japan and western North America.

Coral

Colors are black, red, and pink. Coral can be found in the Mediterranean Sea or in the Pacific off Japan and Taiwan.

Coral is often is imitated by plastic, glass, porcelain and stained bone, but natural coral has a distinctive wood-grain texture that can help identify it as the real thing. Sponge coral, when polished smooth, has visible pores like a sponge. Bamboo coral grows in segmented branches that resemble bamboo stalks, with beige/brown sections partially covering the black under layer. Coral is much softer than other gem materials, and as a result it should be stored carefully to avoid scratches. Cosmetics, hot water and bright daylight are damaging to it.

Many people think coral, like ivory, must be protected and/or are an endangered species. However, the few threatened coral reefs are monitored by international law. Furthermore, research shows that at current harvesting levels, even in the Great Barrier Reef, coral is sustainable; in other words, this fast-growing substance replenishes itself at a rate equal to or greater than it is collected. Coral is said to help restore harmony in the event of emotional conflict and work against nutritional deficiencies, depression and lethargy. In addition, mystics claim it cures madness and gives wisdom but loses its power when broken.

Mother of Pearl

The color is the iridescent coating on the inside of mollusk shells. They are found in the warm and tropical seas, chiefly in Asia. The chief sources of this gemstone are the pearl oyster. This freshwater pearl mussel lives in many rivers of the United States and Europe, and the abalone of California, Japan and other Pacific regions.

Mother of Pearl is so named because when an irritant gets inside a shell, the shell protects itself by coating the irritant with the same material (nacre) of its lining that creates pearls. Therefore, this substance is the creator, or mother, of pearls!

Paua Shell

Paua Shell (aka Sea Opal) has a vibrant and iridescent color. These shells are only found around the New Zealand coasts. Paua shell cabochons are often dyed blue and capped with clear or blue acrylic.

Paua's raw shell is definitely bluer than California abalone, but not as blue as some of the Paua shell beads on the market. Most likely the shell is often enhanced with blue color.

Glass Beads

Fire Polished

Fire polished actually refers to a method used in finishing beads and has nothing to do with the size or shape. They are often referred to as a round bead. A faceted bead is typically 6mm or 8mm in diameter (although smaller and larger sizes exist). Czech Fire polished glass is Fire-polished and machine faceted, then polished by glazing inside a red-hot oven. This gives them beautiful, glistening colors with a 'softer' look and smoother feel.

Lampwork

Lampwork beads range from the simple to extremely complex. An artist makes these beads using a rod called a mandrel, sticks of glass and a torch. They melt the glass with the torch and swirl it onto the mandrel and can do one or many layers to get all sorts of effects. They can also add decorations like flowers, dots and ribbons by placing tiny strings or dots of molten glass on the bead. This results in beautiful beads that are truly unique in its design and shape. They make a great addition to any design!

Seed Beads

This is a very small bead about the size of bird seed. They are primarily used for covering the surface of an object (a bag, moccasins, etc). They range in size from 10/0 to about 22/0. The larger the number, the smaller the size of the bead. A 10/0 is often used by beginners. Most people work in 11/0 or 12/0. Beads smaller than 13/0 are rarely made today (some 14/0 are still in production). Note that seed beads are sometimes called "rocailles."

Swarovski ® Crystal

Swarovski Crystal is not quartz crystal or simple glass, it is finest full cut and polished crystal with a high lead content which accounts for its brilliance and refraction of light. Each piece is full cut, polished and assembled with the highest quality standards. Lead crystal is made from a mixture of silica (sand), potash and lead oxide. To be considered "lead crystal" the content of lead oxide must be at least 24%. It is this mixture that offers exceptional clarity and prismatic colors.

The exclusive Swarovski formula is, of course, a closely guarded secret, as are the cutting and polishing techniques. Crystal making requires unique manufacturing technologies because the material must be worked while extremely hot and the forming operations must be completed in a very short time. Each Swarovski Crystal, created by hand, is worked by as many as seven craftspeople. This hand process results in a truly unique piece. The Swarovski Crystal and Swarovski Jewelry is covered by a global warranty policy for quality.

Swarovski ® Crystal Pearls

Swarovski Crystal Pearls are a perfect imitation of natural pearls. Swarovski Crystal Pearls begin with a crystal core which gives each pearl its ideal weight and why there are named "The Crystal Pearl". Each crystal sphere is then uniformly coated with iridescent, mother-of-pearl like layers. This even coating combined with the crystal base of the pearl bead gives them a brilliance and lustrous shimmer similar to that of real pearls.

Swarovski Crystal Pearls feel superb to the touch and offer that sensual experience treasured by pearl enthusiasts. Swarovski Crystal Pearls adjust to skin temperature the same as with a natural pearl.

The advantage of Swarovski Pearls to real pearls is not just their price. They are also abrasion-proof, resistant to perfume, perspiration, electroplating, UV light and scratches. The exterior finish of Swarovski Crystal Pearls is absolutely flawless and can be washed or dry cleaned. Always to remember to store your pearl jewelry in a soft pouch or padded box separate from other jewelry to avoid scratches.

Celestial Crystal TM

These crystals glisten like a pure, shimmering dewdrop that flashes light and color in all directions. Handmade in the Orient from genuine, fully leaded crystal glass, making each bead minutely different and giving our designs a unique handmade look.

Millefiori Beads

Also known as the Italian meaning of one thousand flowers, and dates back to the Romans in the 1st century B.C. This distinctive and beautiful glass is made by heating up a bundle of very thin colored glass rods and rotating evenly until they fuse together. They are then either sliced to make beads and pendants, or formed into other intricate glass works such as paperweights, marbles and plates. The bead maker continues rotating and evenly heating the bead until the millefiori slices are completely formed into the bead.

Venetian Sommerso Beads

Sommerso means submerged and is a description of how this bead is made, small flecks of color, often aventurina (aventurina is the Veneziana spelling, while aventurina is the Italian spelling) are suspended inside transparent glass. It is a simple Venetian bead, usually less expensive but very popular.

Venetian Fiorato Beads

Decorated with flowers, as fiore means flower in Italian, this word means small flowers. The bead can be made in any technique, gold foil, silver foil, sommerso, however on the outside there will be a small flower which is drawn using molten stringers of colored glass. Often there are also decorations on the exterior of aventurina piping. Venetian Fiorato beads require more skill than sommerso for making.

Venetian Gold Foil, White Gold and Silver Foil

Murano Beads are made by first forming a small ball of the glass and then rolling the molten glass ball across thin sheets of 24kt gold foil, 24kt white gold foil or .925 sterling silver. The bead with this foil exterior is then completed by gently melting on top of the foil transparent colors of Moretti Murano glass. The 24kt gold foil under the colors gives it a rich glow, enhancing the color, while the 24kt white gold foil gives the bead a softer shade of color, refined and warm. Using .925 sterling silver, the true color of the glass is brightened and becomes crisp. The white gold is an alloy with 18kt gold foil and white colored metals, the same as in fine jewelry.

Glass Blown Beads

The blown beads are the only beads made in a real Murano glass furnace or in small laboratories using "glory holes". They are made using a technique called filigrana the glass blower first takes a blowpipe and rolls over canes of colored glass giving the striping in each bead. They may be finished in spirals, or straight striping, and may be balls, or teardrop shape or our very popular pennies which are balls which have been flattened. The Venetian Blown beads may also be made in lampwork technique, or perle a lume (in Italian). In the case where they are made in lampwork, they begin with a larger cane of the Moretti glass which they melt into a soft ball on the end of a small blow pipe. Our blown Venetian Glass Hearts are made in this fashion, while our other Blown Beads are made in the filigrana technique.

Dichroic Beads

Dichroic glass is produced by a process called "thin film physics." Hand-rolled sheet glass is secured to the top of a vacuum chamber. The chamber is heated to approximately 300 degrees, and after a vacuum is created, metals such as titanium, silicon, and magnesium are vaporized in a crucible by electron beams. The vapors rise and grow on the glass as metal crystals. The resulting color is determined by the individual oxide composition. One color is reflected from the glass surface and a separate, completely different color is shown when the light is allowed to pass through the glass.

Dichroic color applied to black glass will reflect all the light and provide a dynamic metallic color. The same Dichroic color applied to clear glass will absorb and reflect light giving an ever-shifting rainbow of color. Each of the Dichroic beads are individual - no two ever alike and held in the sunlight will appear different as a result of the coatings.

Furnace Glass

Furnace Glass Beads are different in that they are made by real glass blowers in glass furnaces. The glass used in this furnace is more like Pyrex in that the glassblowers can blow these to very thin walls and that each bead is annealed in the oven overnight insuring that all stresses are relieved. This makes for a very strong bead.